If you cant find GM dexcool the best alternatives are silicon phosphate free coolants. Keep in mind that just because a cooling system says 5 years 150k miles doesnt mean you can ignore checking the system that long! Check it weekly and monitor for any coolant loss and if there is any find where its going and fix it. Those 4 things I found seem to help out a lot. KEEP air out of your system, Keep your radiator cap clean, Keep your overflow bottle filled to the highest mark, and use only distilled water with 50/50 mixes. Now as for dexcool sludge/foam/mud, the best cure for that seems to be this. That coating "prevents" dexcool corrosion inhibitors from effectively lasting more than 2 years. I can look at a system that has had green coolant in it and it is coated with scaling even from short term use. Even if you try to switch back to dexcool. (my theory) When ever you put a silicon based coolant in your cooling system you must and I mean MUST change your coolant every 2 years. The aluminum pipes on heater cores seem to often fail because of this. As the coolant ages the silicon tends to bond to each other forming larger particals and it begins to eat away at aluminum like a sand blaster. The silicon contained in green coolant isnt the healthiest stuff you can put in a modern cooling system. I've also seen hardened clusters of silicon bonded to aluminum surfaces. I've seen some pretty bad pitting on machined mating surfaces of aluminum. Last edited by JEFFTATE 01-27-2011 at 11:33 AM.From what "I've experienced" and have seen the conventional green coolant attacts aluminum towards the end of its life cycle vigorously. I've never had a water pump, thermostat, or heater core go bad in years and years. I drain, flush, and refill the coolant every 30 k miles. In my '69 Camaro, I use the good old Green Ethylene Glycol based coolant, mixed 50/50 with distilled water. Like an old, old car from the 50's, 40's, or 30's. I would not use the DexCool in a car with brass radiator, or brass freeze plugs, or brass heater core. You just don't want the level to get low. I don't see why you couldn't use the DexCool in a pro-touring car ( musclecar era car ).with a modern engine, new heater core, and an overflow tank. When the DexCool level got low, and churned with air, it would gel.Īnd the public blamed the DexCool, when it was actually defective gaskets. ( This was faulty gaskets, not the Dexcool's fault ) ![]() In the late '90s and early 2000's we saw quite a few vehicles with leaking intake gaskets. I work at a Chevy Dealer, and we haven't seen problems with DexCool equipped vehicles in years. I have never had a problem with "goop" or gel in the cooling system. ![]() I drain, flush, and refill the cooling system every 30,000 miles. My 1999 S10 uses DexCool, but it does not have a pressurized overflow tank. ![]() Weird thing is that we did in fact go this far in depth about coolants when going to school lol. You can in fact mix them and it has no discernible effect other than lowering the service life to the normal 3/30k. The ideal coolant for most classic engines would be a Ethylene Glycol based HOAT with Tolytriazole, Sodium Silicate, and Sodium Borate.Īnother common misconception is that you cant mix "green" propylene glycol coolants and DexCool. The better stuff is the HOAT (Hybrid Organic Additive Technology) like Zerex G05. DexCool is known as a OAT (Organic Acid Technology) and the main advantage of it is its extended service life. Little known fact, but the "goop" that DexCool turns into is different for ever single engine, even very similar engines. GM introduced the new pressurized overflow systems with the new caps the same time as DexCool and they're the real cause of all these issues. CamaroAJ is correct, it isnt the DexCool itself that causes the issues its letting air into the system.
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